2 January to 9 January 2016
Paradise 1 – Ilha Grande
The first paradise was Ilha Grande, not far from Rio de Janeiro to the south. It is a place that you would see in an advertisement when you are in the London Underground on a Monday morning, desperately trying not to look at anyone. An advertisement for your next holiday, holiday insurance or lottery. A place where you would rather be on a Monday morning.
With this in mind I feel even more privileged to be there on the first days of January. Small sandy bays with clear water, mountains covered in thick rainforest, fairly empty beaches, tropical heat. Even the heavy rainfall on the first day can’t destroy paradise. I go along with Steve from my hostel to venture to Lopes Mendes, voted one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Steve seems my English counterpart, he is from England, but has been living in Germany for 13 years now. His German is perfect, so we converse in German, a rarity when both speak English. We have the beach for ourselves, blessing of the rain, and enjoy some body surfing in the waves. Plus a mandatory beer on our way back in a restaurant on the water.
Steve is leaving the following day and, the rain having cleared and with sunshine all day, I decide to climb up to the highest peak on the island, Pico de Papagaio. I turn around before I start though as some locals tell me it’s not safe, people get lost. Reluctantly I change plans and join two Argentinians, again from my hostel, to walk to Playa Dois Rios instead. I find it even more beautiful than Lopes Mendes. I play like a child in the perfect waves and dance to the playlist on my phone. I go to bed relatively early, but not early enough, to get up at 1am for an organised hike up to Pico de Papagaio to watch the sunrise.
My stupid competitiveness ensures that I am in the first group to reach the top just before the first light appears on the horizon. I love the sensation when complete darkness slowly reveals the most stunning view. Years ago it was Mount Bromo on Java, Indonesia. This time it was the view over the island and the neighbouring mainland. Our guide says you can even see Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro on clear days. Not today, the clouds race up the mountain side, also a breathtaking spectacle. It is beautiful when the sun comes up, although the peace is slightly disturbed by everyone in the 20 people strong group taking endless photos and selfies. I am part of it (though not guilty on the selfie part, which I still mostly avoid), so can’t complain.
In the afternoon, I catch the boat and transfer to Rio de Janeiro. I sit in the front, next to the driver just like on my way to Ilha Grande. And next to me sits the same girl as on the way there! Lisa from Holland. This time we chat the whole way. Turns out we are both going to the Iguazu waterfalls, although Lisa is flying and am going by bus. She is absolutely lovely and we get on great. Long live the Dutch!
Paradise 2 – Iguazu waterfalls
I have seen many incredibly beautiful sites on my trip so far from the glorious mountains in Alaska to tropical white sand beaches just last week in Ilha Grande, but the Iguazu falls surpass them all. I have never seen anything like it and I am not sure I ever will see something so otherworldly beautiful. It is the violence and force of the water masses crushing down on an unimaginable scale that contrasts with the lush rain forest, palm trees, rainbows and thousands of colourful butterflies flying past peacefully. I feel like being in a Disney movie or a painting depicting paradise. I am so grateful that I am allowed to see this.
I arrive at the Brasilian side after a 24 hour bus ride from Rio de Janeiro. On the bus to the falls, I meet a nice Japanese couple in the bus and we walk the small trail path together. Everybody says the Argentinian side is more spectacular, but seeing the falls that day I can’t imagine that this is possible.
I have to agree the next day when I visit the Argentinian side together with Lisa, Manuela and Carlo, two Italian friends. Being close to the falls you can feel their power much more and just wonder in awe. When we leave the park I am in such a good mood. But it gets even better when I discover it is Friday and therefore party night. Luckily the rest of the group is also ready to join plus Mirko, a German from Cologne staying in the same hostel, who had talked to me earlier that day because of my SC Freiburg jersey. Lisa, Manuela and Carlos have to leave in the morning and I spend another incredible day with Mirko at the falls.

Hallo Lisa,
vielen Dank für Deine herrlichen Aufnahmen von der Ilha Mendes u. dem Pico P.
Sehr beeindruckend auch die Iguazúwasserfälle – ( ich besuchte sie 1984 auf meiner S.-Amerika-Reise.
Ich habe gehört,dass du schon in Cuzco angekommen bist Das war 1984 meine ” Traumstadt”
( davon später mündlich mehr).
Ich nehme an , dass du ( mit Lena ) den camino Inca zumindest teilweise erwandern wirst.
Der Blick vom Sonnentor aus ist wahrlich breathtaking. ( hoffentlich spielt das Wetter mit!)
Richtiges Reisen ( wäre noch zu definieren ) erweitert zumindest optional An-,Aus-, Ein-
Absichten…..
Wir freuen uns jetzt schon auf deine mündlichen Erlebnisberichte
Liebe Grüße auch an Lena
Rudolf
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