2 to 10 December 2015
Returning to Santa Marta, I spent a couple of nights at El Rodadero to decide what to do for my last week in Colombia and have some time to do my laundry, nails, shopping etc.
In the end, I booked a three day hike in the Andes area where most of Colombia’s coffee is grown, the ‘Zona Cafetera’. I left Santa Marta at sea level at 3pm on Thursday and arrived in Salento at 2,400m on Friday at 7pm. I had little rest as the group gathered at 6am the following morning: Ivo from Germany, Marijke from Belgium and the obligatory Dutch couple, Kirsten and Freek. At this point I have to say that Dutch couples are the best in the world. Apart from being wonderful individual persons, they are also extremely pleasant to be around together; not too much all over each other on one hand and never bickering on the other. Dutch couples forever!
The hike was perfectly organised by Paramotrek http://www.paramotrek.com/. Santiago and German were our young, very able Colombian guides.
The first day, we walked uphill 1,400m in altitude and 17km in distance. The first part through lush cloud forest of the Cocora valley was easy in comparison to the second part, the steep incline to the Paramo at 3,800m, where trees stop growing. At some point around 3,500m altitude the headache started and stayed until we descended again on our way back on the third day.
I have never experienced high altitude and was surprised about the effects it had on me. Apart from the headache, I also lost all appetite and had to force myself to eat all meals and snacks. In the two nights at the ‘La Primavera’ farm at 3,800 I hardly slept, first it was very cold and then I felt very hot. The mind was also slightly numb and we all felt delirious when we arrived at the farm the first evening. But the hardest part was the hiking itself. After only a few metres uphill I was out of breath. On day two, I felt so ill, I really wasn’t sure if I was going to be able to hike to the top of Paramillo de Quindio, 4750m. In the end it took an anti altitude sickness pill and a lot of willpower to continue to set one foot in front of the other on the uphill parts. But the majestic unique landscape and the enormous sense of achievement at the top and when we got back to the farm after 19km made it all worthwhile.
The farm itself is run by one family which used to concentrate on agriculture; however, tourism is becoming more and more important for them, so that they sold 50 out their hundred cows last year in order to finance the construction of a second floor of bedrooms. A private company sponsored solar panels for energy supply. Nevertheless, the accommodation was basic and I was glad that I had brought my silk linen to keep me from the unwashed bed sheets and blankets. It must be a tough life to live in those conditions far away from any civilisation. I don’t think they have hot water and it got mighty cold in the night! The children apparently do go to school in Salento where they stay with relatives during the week and return for a three day weekend. Climbing up and down those mountains every week! There were a girl of three years and a machete-yielding boy of two years running around. Apparently he was her uncle and chances are they are ending up together!
The 18km trek back to the valley on day three was comparatively easy. I started talking again about half way down, after I had hardly said anything the previous day due to exhaustion. We had a lovely meal together on our return to the village with some excellent Colombian craft beer. Apart from Ivo and the guides everybody continued to Medellin the following day. Marijke and I travelled together and shared a room together in Medellin. Great company, thanks Marijke!
I was in Medellin for only two nights, but could have stayed much longer. Especially the leafy tourist neighbourhood El Poblado is very attractive due to numerous chic bars, cafés, restaurants and shops. At some point I was very confused over where I was: I had dinner in an Indian restaurant that reminded me of London with two Dutch and a Belgium and outside it looked and felt a bit like Seattle.
You may know Medellin’s story: It used to be the world’s most dangerous city as recent as 20 years with annual homocide rates as high as 381 per 100,000 inhabitants. In comparison today’s most murderous city, Caracas, Venezuela, has a rate of 119 and London of about 1. Medellin has since undergone a remarkable turnaround thanks to a capable government and wise policies. Our guide from Medellin Free Walking Tours, Anna, explained this impressively. For me she also embodies the new Colombia: hopeful, proud, youthful, smart and full of energy. I pray that all these positive developments continue and allow the country and its people to prosper. Colombia – a wonderful and diverse place.
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